Posts filed under 'Universe Of Gardening'
The american’s love their stars and stripes, you cant fault them for their belief in their country.
Perhaps a little misfounded though having only been a few hundred years in the making - windows mediacenter was not taken as historically though by the people - the usual customers went for corporate and professional versions in swarms - the same can be said about t-shirts - ones produced that are all stars and stripes don’t often sell as well as random shirts like Gothic T Shirts - its these products that prove america needs more than just its name to keep going.
And whats more where are all these products made? Am I am talking about cars as well as computers and t shirts - thats right mostly in the middle east, america claims tech dominance but is it really more war tech they dominate?
July 6th, 2008
Surprisingly enough, it is usually in mid-summer that many
gardeners begin to think about installing a small pond or
water garden. Ponds don’t need to be weeded or watered, and
they can supply exuberant color in the form of water lilies
and bog plants.
The sound of a splashing fountain or waterfall is more
appealing than weeding a flower bed or mowing that section of
lawn. Best of all, no matter how hot or wet it gets, the pond
just keeps on blooming!
At this point you may start to think about the expense and
labor of installing a concrete pond, and our 95 degree days
are just about enough to stop this pond daydream in its
tracks.
However, with the advent of newer pond liners and pre-formed
pools, the misery associated with concrete mixing and
finishing is a thing of the past. Heavy duty pool liners with
10 year guarantees are now common, and can sell for as little
as $1.00 a square foot.
Preformed ponds in many different shapes and sizes are also an
alternative method to create a quick pond at less cost than
using concrete. Using these materials, the average gardener
can install a decent size pond in less than one day, and have
it stocked with plants, fish and fountain by the following
morning.
The simplest kind of pond to build is an above-the-ground
pond. Since no digging is required, it usually takes much
longer to fill this pond with water than it does to build it!
There are many variations on this theme, but as an example,
one can use treated lumber planks which are at least 2 inches
thick by 12 inches wide, nail them together to form a
rectangular shape of the desired dimensions, and place the
form where the pond is desired.
This bottomless “box” can be placed directly on the grass,
concrete, a deck, etc., and then the bottom is covered with
some kind of padding or cushioning material. Most books say to
use sand, but I think the perfect material is roofing felt. It
is cheap, convenient, lies flat, makes a barrier to weeds, and
provides a good cushion for the pool liner.
Once the roofing felt is in place, the pool liner can be
dropped into the form and you begin filling the pond with
water. A few staples on the outside of the pond form may be
needed to keep the liner from blowing into the pond, but be
sure to use just a few, and place them at the edge of the
liner.
As the pond fills, the weight of the water will do a good job
in smoothing out wrinkles, but if you are a perfectionist, you
can help smooth them out by hand before there is more than one
inch of water in the bottom of the pond. While the pond is
beginning to fill, you can check the level of the form, and if
it needs to be raised a little on one or two sides, this can
be done by carefully inserting some shims to raise the forms
where needed.
If you prefer the pond to overflow on a certain side (like,
into the flower bed, rather than onto the deck!) then you may
want to leave the overflow side a quarter inch lower than the
rest of the pond.
You should wait until the pond is completely filled before
cutting any excess liner or doing any permanent stapling. This
will give the water pressure enough time to pull the liner
into every nook and cranny where it needs to go; some of those
few holding staples which you used to hold the liner in place
may actually tear loose as the pond fills, but if you stapled
the liner on the outside of the form, near the edges, then no
harm is done… you will be trimming some of that excess liner
off, anyway.
It really does take longer to fill this kind of pond than it
does to build it. I once built a twenty-by-thirty foot pond in
two hours but it took all night for it to fill with water.
I think an ideal depth for an above ground pond is about 14
inches, but it can be deeper or more shallow than that,
depending on what materials you are using for the form.
Railroad ties, landscape timbers, concrete blocks, etc. are
all possible materials for pond building.
Remember that any kind of wood must be pressure treated if you
want it to last more than a year! Although I mentioned
rectangular shape, if you have some carpentry skills, you can
also do triangles, pentagons, ponds within ponds, etc.
Ponds built with treated lumber planks do not need any side
support if they are less than 8 feet or 10 feet long; if you
are building larger than that, you will want to drive a stake
into the ground where the planks are to be nailed together, so
the water pressure won’t make the planks bow outward. So, if
you know how to use twelve nails to nail four planks together,
then you can build a pond. If you are feeling lazy, have the
lumber yard cut the planks to size you need. Borrow your
neighbor’s staple gun, find those scissors buried in the
kitchen drawer, and you are in business!
Pond liners can also be used to make an in the ground pond.
The advantage is that you can make any shape pond you want,
and the ground itself supports the sides of the liner.
It is a good idea to use a flexible garden hose to lay out the
pool shape you want. Once everyone agrees that it is a
pleasant shape, and it is large enough, you can dig a trench
along side the hose, and start digging.
Remember, the pool does not have to be more than 12 to 16
inches deep, so don’t get carried away. If you want a
waterfall, some of the excavated soil can be mounded up near
the pond for later waterfall construction. In some cases, it
may be useful to use some of the soil for a berm around the
pond, so that is another way to dispose of excavated soil.
Once the pond is excavated, check the level, decide which side
you want excess rainfall to flow from, and then you are ready
to line the hole with roofing felt, running it across the
pond, up the sides onto the edges of the pond. Drop the liner
in, weigh it down lightly with some rocks around the edges,
and start filling.
Again, do not trim any excess liner until the pond is
completely filled. Some pond books say you should create a
shallow shelf in the pond before putting in the liner, but
they don’t have our river sand and rainfall to deal with. I
think it is better to build the pond to a depth of 14-16
inches, and just use bricks to prop up those bog plants that
don’t want to sit too deep in water. This gives greater
flexibility in rearranging the pond plants as you wish, and
avoids the calamity of a shelf suddenly slumping into the
pool. When using pool liners, whether in the ground or above
the ground, it is important to conceal the edges from
sunlight, since that is what eventually breaks down most
liners.
Using stones or lumber planks to finish off the edge of your
pond will make it more appealing, and enable the liner to live
up to its ten year guarantee. Even the heavier, preformed
plastic ponds should have their edges covered by sod or some
paving material, so the sun can’t reach it. Some final
pointers: if possible, locate your pond away from trees, in a
place that gets at least five hours of direct sun daily. This
will allow you to grow a wide variety of pond plants.
Be sure to use a dechlorinating product when you first fill
the ponds… the new chemicals in our drinking water do not
dissipate quickly and they will kill your fish and damage your
plants, even ten days after you have filled the pond!
Be sure you are pleased with the size and shape of your pond
before you start - so you won’t say “I should have made it
bigger, or longer, or rounder, etc.”, within two hours of
filling it!
Rule number one in pond building is that no matter how big
your pond is, you always want a bigger one.
Last, but not least, if you decide to do an in-the-ground
pond, why not serve refreshments and get some friends to help
. . . friends will have all kinds of useful ideas on how you
should do it … which is fine, as long as they keep
digging…
**************************************************
Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several
other pond-related websites including
MacArthurWatergardens.com
and Pond-Filters-Online.com. He
also publishes a free monthly
newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over
9,000. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive our FREE
‘New Pond Owners Guide’ visit MacArthur Water Gardens today!
**************************************************
March 23rd, 2008
Gardening tools are extremely important for everyone who wants to make his own garden. But some people often get stuck when choosing the most appropriate tools to fit their needs. Upon deciding to work on your garden, you need to take to your attention the list of basic gardening tools that are going to be presented below.
1) The hoe. A hoe is absolutely essential as a gardening tool. It is used when weeding and cultivating the soil. Digging with a hoe allows nutrients and water to penetrate easier in the soil.
2) The spading fork. That is another tool for digging the soil. It is perfect for improving of hard soil and it is basically used for breaking up the ground. Spading fork is similar to pitchforks in appearance, the difference being in its shorter handle and larger tines.
3) The shovel. If you buy a shovel, choose a round-ended. This gardening tool serves for digging the soil and for forming the beds before the plants are sown. Shrubs and trees can also be planted using a shovel.
4) The rake. A rake is useful for leveling the soil after it has been turned. It also cleans the ground surface from any tough clods of earth or larger stones that can obstruct the planting. Make sure you buy a bow rake. The bow rake has short tines on one side attached to a metal frame-the so-called “bow”. The flat side of the bow rake can be used for smoothing the soil before plants are sown.
5) The shears. A pair of garden shears is irreplaceable. Choose the pair that best fits to your hand and don’t rush to the most expensive one, if you haven’t tried pruning before. Shears are also called clippers. This gardening tool is used for pruning the plants and trees, for shaping the hedge and for removing unnecessary foliage.
6) The watering can. It is a gardening tool for watering all kind of smaller plants. For trees and larger shrubs you need to use a watering system. The length of the nozzle determines how far-reaching the water flow will be. The longer the nozzle, the more gentle and far-reaching the water flow. Another tip upon buying a watering can is to buy one with a detachable spray head- so that after removing it, you can water young seedlings.
This list can protect you from spending your money on something completely unnecessary, or on tools too specialized for your needs. Most of the gardening tools offered on stores are utterly useless for the new beginner, and some of them are too expensive. Most gardeners consider a shovel or spade, a trowel, a rake and a hoe the minimum equipment necessary for taking care of your garden. Of course, the specificity of the gardening tools which you may need depends on the effects you want to achieve, also on the size of your garden and on your abilities as a gardener. If you are a novice, you should follow the list and supply your outhouse with these basic gardening tools first. These gardening tools are sold in a large variety of shape and colors, suitable for any aesthetic preference.
If you have a flair for bargaining, you may buy the basic gardening tools at the overall price of less than 100$. You’d better wait for the end of the gardening season when the prices are lower. Look in every gardening store, flea markets and yard sales as well, before spending your money on a given tool. Remember that your gardening tools are to last for many years and be careful what you choose.
Article by Robbie Darmona - an article writer who writes on a wide variety of subjects.
For more information click ==>Gardening Tools
February 15th, 2008
Lighting for seniors requires attention to some specific details. When planning a lighting design for aging baby boomers we want to provide both adequate light to see clearly and a safe environment. With a combination of recessed, pendant, track and wall fixtures, these needs can be met. It is very important that certain areas be well lit. Areas like stairs and bathrooms where so many accidents occur or basements, which are usually dark. Kitchens require a great deal of light so food can be prepared safely.
It is fact that as we age our eyes needs change and we need more light to see properly. What may be suitable at 25 may not be good enough at 40 and what may work at 40, just won’t cut it at age 60. Task lighting can help in a kitchen by installing under cabinet lights. A good choice for under cabinet lights is fluorescent for the simple reason that they require very little maintenance. This is another important aspect to consider. We want to try to choose lighting that requires very little maintenance and does not require tools to change bulbs. Placing the light fixtures in a location that makes it easy to reach to change light bulbs is also a good choice. Wall sconces are a good choice to solve this problem. A wall sconce placed in a stairway for instance can provide light as well as eliminate the need for a ladder to change the light bulb.
Everyone has different needs and this is only a general guide. It is important to meet the needs of each individual situation. There may be special needs that require special solutions. A person who is wheelchair bound may need lower and reachable switches. Perhaps remote control lighting is a good solution in some cases. This can be extremely useful in a bedroom. By using a remote, a person can turn the lights on and turn them off after getting into bed.
Wall sconces can be a solution in other rooms as well. Two wall sconces; one on each side of the vanity does a great job of illuminating the room and ease of bulb replacement. Just be sure when choosing a fixture that the wall sconce has an open top or bottom so the bulb can be replaced without having to remove parts. A bar light above the vanity with exposed bulbs is another good alternative. The fixtures you want to try and avoid are those in which small screws need to be loosened or removed to get to the bulb.
Another point to consider is outdoor lighting for security. Be sure to provide plenty of light at all entrances and exits. These lights should also be on a timer or photocell so that they are on when needed. Someone may leave expecting to be home before dark and get delayed. In this case having the lights come on automatically will allow them to enter the house safely. Motion detectors can also be used in places that we don’t want to keep the lights on for extended periods. Areas like walkways along the side of a house or a path where the garbage is taken out. Driveways are another good location for a motion detector light.
In fixtures where changing a bulb is a little difficult, using a compact fluorescent is a good choice. With a compact fluorescent, the bulb will last as long as 3 years and sometimes longer. A great place for one is in a shower light, just be sure to get a big enough bulb to light the area adequately. Outside light fixtures are also a good choice unless you live in an area where the temperature gets below freezing a lot. Another place for fluorescent fixtures are closets, which can be extremely dark for an elderly person.
The key points to remember are to make sure all areas are adequately illuminated and use fixtures that require a minimum of maintenance.
About the Author
Paul forte has been in the lighting industry for over 25 years. For more info and tips on lighting and other electrical needs please visit Lighting Tips
For help with Laying out recessed lighting
February 13th, 2008
Roses have long been a favorite among all types of gardeners,
and roses continue to enjoy great popularity today. In addition
to their beauty as cut flowers and in bouquets, roses are among
the most useful and attractive flowers to grace the landscape of
any home.
As a matter of fact, the exterior of any home can be made more
graceful and more inviting through the use of wonderful
landscape roses. Choosing the right ones, and ensuring that they
compliment the overall style of the home, is very important to
the overall success of the landscape.
Fortunately, the number of ornamental landscape roses make
finding them an easy task. The difficulty consists of choosing
the right ones from this variety. There are a number of classes
of roses whose characteristics make them great for use as
landscape ornamentals. For instance, the gardener who wants to
grow roses up and over an archway or a trellis may want to use
tall growing tea roses. Tea roses are renowned for their nodding
blooms, therefore all who pass under the arch would be treated
to the beautiful sight of roses in full bloom.
To accent a wall or other permanent structure, a true climbing
rose is often the best choice. True climbing roses can be
trained to many different effects, including climbing up the
length of the structure, or accenting the tops and sides of a
wall or building.
The Polyantha or modern day Floribunda rose is a great choice
for gardeners looking for a vibrant splash of color for the
background. These popular varieties of roses have large sprays
of blooms, and they are popular choices for providing color in
the landscape.
If roses are to be planted in front of other plants in the
landscape, miniature or low growing China roses are a perfect
choice. Roses can even be used as hedges, with modern Shrub
roses and Rugosa roses being excellent choices.
Of course, as with any aspect of gardening, color is an
important consideration. After all, every gardener’s goal is a
garden full of colorful, vibrant and healthy plants.
Fortunately, roses come in so many shapes, sizes, textures and
colors that there truly is a rose for every gardener.
The goal of choosing the best color roses for the landscape
should be to compliment the color of the surrounding landscape.
For instance, a spray of plain white tea roses can be striking
against a dark red brick home, or an arrangement of pink roses
can be the perfect compliment to a stone or marble entranceway.
With so many colors of roses to choose from, it should be easy
to find colors that compliment and enhance any decorating scheme.
One popular trend in the world of landscaping is to use a
variety of different plants and flowers in the landscape.
Whereas single species landscaping was in vogue a few years ago,
most of today’s gardeners like to use a mix of different colors,
species and styles of plants. Doing so not only makes for a
vibrant garden, but it is thought to enhance the health of the
soil as well.
Fortunately, roses lend themselves well to this mixture, and
roses can be a beautiful part of an overall landscape of plants
and flowers. In addition, there are roses suitable for a variety
of climates. Choosing the best rose varieties for your specific
climate should mean fewer pesticides, few disease issues and an
overall healthier garden.
December 30th, 2007
Is mistletoe the plant good for anything other than “getting caught” under? Visions of Christmas cheer, festivities, and kisses pop into our heads when we think of mistletoe. The tradition of kissing under the mistletoe started long ago… where a berry would be taken off the sprig every time a kiss was exchanged. But there’s much more to this green, leathery sprig than you might think.
Mistletoe is the name for a group of parasitic plants. They have no true roots, and attach themselves to trees for survival. Mistletoe lives off the host tree - without it, the plant would die.
Mistletoe the plant is quite the vagabond. It is spread around by birds that eat the mistletoe’s red and white berries. A sticky pulp within each berry contains the mistletoe seed. The pulp oozes from the bird’s beak and fastens to a tree’s branches. Seeds can also be transported from one tree branch to another by the bird’s droppings.
Mistletoe - The Notorious Plant
The mistletoe plant has had an interesting bout with its reputation, both good and bad. Many people, usually those having trees that are burdened by this plant, think of mistletoe as a destructive nuisance. The plants draw water and minerals from the trees, and during a drought this can be quite devastating. Mistletoe infestation often results in deformities of the tree’s branches.
Pruning the infested tree is helpful, if the amount of mistletoe is small. For an overwhelming infestation, the only real remedy is to remove the tree. At the very least, cutting out the parasite itself will reduce its spread somewhat. The mistletoe will eventually grow back. Unfortunately, the chemicals that will destroy mistletoe are harmful to the host trees.
Is mistletoe a hazard? Yes, in varying degrees. Contact with the berries can cause a rash very much like poison ivy to people who are sensitive to it. Many mistletoe plants are also poisonous to small children and pets. Typically, ingestion of enough mistletoe causes stomach and intestinal irritation with diarrhea. Slow pulse and lowered blood pressure can also occur.
Mistletoe - The Honorable Plant
Historically speaking, mistletoe has enjoyed a high reputation of bringing about good luck and prosperity. The ancient Europeans considered mistletoe to be a sacred plant. Scandinavian countries believed that if armies were at war where mistletoe was overhead, the fighting would stop. In Greece, it was believed mistletoe would bring fertility and abundant life to newlyweds. The Druids used the plant for sacrifice, and Celts thought mistletoe had great healing powers.
Mistletoe has been a long-time favorite of herbalists and natural healers in Asia and Europe. The extract from mistletoe the plant (not its berries) has been used for treating conditions such as cancer, respiratory ailments, circulatory problems and epilepsy. The parts of the mistletoe plant used for therapy are the leaves and developing twigs.
According to the National Cancer Institute, laboratory and animal studies have been conducted with mistletoe. The findings suggest that mistletoe may enhance the immune system. However, few studies on humans have been done.
Although there is a good deal of information about mistletoe’s ability to affect the immune system, there is no scientific evidence yet stating that this heightened immunity leads to increased destruction of cancer cells.
All in all, the mistletoe plant has emerged victorious from such a diverse background. Today, the Christmas tradition of the mistletoe plant has sparked its market value and popularity. Just remember to keep it out of reach of pets and little ones… and when the mistletoe berries run out, so do the kisses.
Copyright 2006 Robert Mosse
Robert Mosse is a gardening and lawn care specialist and author of the “Easy” Lawn and Gardening Book Series. Visit Robert at Lawn And Gardening Tips for great gardening info… and get the free Guide for 101 Gardening Tips.
December 30th, 2007
“Old Roses” Convey Time Honored Tradition
In the 18th Century, the practice of tending rose bushes was popular and a handy source for young men to offer as gifts during courtship. These roses were not only beautiful to admire and richly fragrant but also highly symbolic of an unwritten and often unspoken language between admirers. In ancient times, some even believed that these roses contained medicinal properties. Most of these “old roses” came from hardy shrubs that required moderate tending. Today’s “old rose” varieties are also for the most part hardy but require consistent attention before you’ll achieve a seasoned gardener’s level of perfection.
The category of “old roses” is from a hardy stock of rose bushes and climbers that were popular in the Victorian age. Most of these Victorian-age roses were imported from varieties that were first grown in Greece and Persia during the 15th Century. These aromatic roses are still highly popular in today’s gardens since they grow well in several zones and don’t require the same highly detailed attention as many hybrid roses.
To select an “old rose” for your garden, begin by examining your garden area and figuring out what roses work in that area. For instance, some “old roses” bushes work best as hedges while others prefer to crawl low as bed covers. Many climbers first look like small bushes but climb well up patios, sides of homes, and fences. Some other factors to think about when picking and arranging “old roses” are drainage, sunlight, shading, and insects. Most “old roses” must be watered very frequently on a daily basis. Sunlight is needed for about five hours a day for most “old rose” shrubs
About The Author
Copyright 2005 Simonetta Jensen. All rights reserved.
Simonetta Jensen is the webmaster and operator of Roses ABC Inc which is a principal resource for information on roses and other flowers on the internet. For more info visit her archive of articles: http://www.rosesabc.com/
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December 24th, 2007
Whether you live in a home, apartment or townhouse there are times when all the space with in your four walls is not enough. If you find yourself in need of more room to enjoy activities at home you might want to consider moving some of them outside. The garden and outdoor furniture today is designed to be as convenient as the furniture you use inside your home.
Just think of some of the entertaining ways you can use your outdoor space. For instance, on a warm summer evening you can enjoy a wonderful meal under the stars with family and friends. On the other hand, a fresh air setting filled with comfortable garden and outdoor furniture can be the perfect place to enjoy an afternoon of board games or watch your favorite sports game.
To decorating outside your home gives children a safe environment to play with their friends or a quiet place to do their homework. Placing a garden swing in your backyard creates a comforting atmosphere to that it is ideally suited for quiet storytelling or serious discussions. Your garden and outdoor furniture to can complement your lifestyle and improve the functionality of the interior of your home; there are many storage units that will help you organize your activities outdoors to give you more space to use inside your home .
Particularly in the warm summer months it is very pleasant to spend time outside relaxing in garden and outdoor furniture. Many of the task you have to perform throughout the day can be done outside; preparing the ingredients for a meal, repairing apparel, cleaning yourself silverware, or repotting plants all become less tedious when done in a natural surrounding.
Take an inventory of how you are currently using your interior space to see how many activities can be read organized in a way to take advantage of this space you have outside your home. Selecting the appropriate garden furniture according to your needs and budget for recreation, seating, table space and storage area to expand both your living space and your personal enjoyment.
More about Outdoor and Garden furniture
July 11th, 2007
What could possibly smell or look better than a vase of beautiful rose blooms on your table or the table of someone you love? Roses, especially hybrid tea roses, are made to be cut and they can last a very long time in a vase if you follow these simple tips.
Always make sure that you cut your roses with a sharp and clean pair of shears. Dull shears will crush the rose’s stem, and dirty shears can transmit disease to your other blooms.
Roses store and process their nutrients on a schedule. Hold off cutting your roses until after 3 PM when their nutrient levels are the highest.
It’s too late to cut a bud when it is fully open. Choose buds which have started to open, but are only 1/3 to 1/2 of the way through the process.
Don’t remove all of the leaves from the cut stem. Leave at least 3 to help feed the bloom, but cut off all leaves that will be below the water level of the vase.
Once you have cut all the roses that you will be cutting for the day, bring them inside and start the water conditioning and hardening process.
Roses can live for an amazingly long time in a vase if you understand what it takes to keep them alive.
The first threat to a cut rose’s health is the air that it sucked up when you cut the stem outdoors. This little “air pocket” which entered the cut stem works its way up to the bloom where it ultimately shortens the blooms life.
That air needs to be replaced with water. The easiest way to do that is to fill a bowl with hot tap water, as hot as you can stand to put your hands into, but not scalding hot.
Add whatever floral preservative you use plus a few drops of bleach.
Now place all of the rose stems into the bowl. Do not let the buds touch the hot water.
Use your shears and cut approximately 1/4 inch off the end of each stem and leave the roses in the bowl until the water cools to room temperature.
Fill your vase with warm water, add a drop or two of bleach and a bit of preservatives. Then add your roses.
This little bit of extra work, as well as the addition of a few drops of bleach, will extend the vase life of your cut roses longer than you can imagine.
Whenever the water starts to get cloudy, remove the roses, refill with hot water, add a drop or two of bleach, and return the roses to the vase at once.
When your bloom begin to show signs of wilting, re-cut about an 1/8 of an inch from the stems and place the stems into hot water for about an hour before returning them to the vase.
About the Author
Angie Noack is a home and garden strategist with a sharp edge for technology. With her unique ability to combine these two skills, she’s able to help gardeners save time and increase productivity. You can find her online at http://www.rosedairy.com.
June 26th, 2007
Natural stone pebbles are becoming extremely popular in homes because of their wide range of colors and uses. Here are a few ideas for use in your own home.
Japanese Gardens
Japanese Gardens and known for their peacefulness and tranquillity. This style of garden uses specific plants as well as rocks and water to create this effect. Often these gardens are small in scale and are incorporated into an overall garden design rather than being the whole garden.
Decorative Pots
Placing some pebbles around the top of a potted plant can make indoor plants more attractive. Consider what part of the potted plant you want to make the focus. You can use a decorative ceramic pot as well. Decide whether you want matching or contrasting colors in the pot and the pebbles you choose. The pebbles and chosen pot should help focus your eye on the plant you have chosen.
Vases
Pebbles are also very effective used in the bottom of vases. Glass vases in particular look superb with some colored natural stone in the bottom. The pebble base also helps hold the arranged flowers in place. Decorative vases make great table decorations for dinner parties.
Paths and Drives
Paths and drives become very low maintenance when covered with a topping of small natural stone pebbles. The pebble size you choose needs to take into account how the path or drive will be used. Heavy car traffic or foot traffic areas need smaller stones as they are more comfortable underfoot and better for cars to drive over. Gravel drives and paths should have retaining edging to hold the stones in place. Drives and paths need to be topped up with extra stone occasionally. They are very durable and much nicer looking than a plain old concrete driveway.
Water Features
It seems now that everyone wants a garden water feature. They can be very small or quite large and bold but always add an element of tranquillity to any garden. When planning a water feature you can incorporate natural stone in a variety of ways. Larger stones around the edge of the feature can add character. Pebbles can also be used to cover the base of the water feature and to cover up any cords or pumps that are used to power it. Before choosing your stone remember to wet a sample as this is how it will look in your water feature.
Ponds
The same rule applies with ponds to wet your sample and check the colour of the stone. Natural stone is normally dusty when collected and when the dust comes off the real color is revealed. Ponds look great with built-up edging. You can use a variety of materials including feature rocks, wood, metal and many others. You can also mix and match various sized stones for a more natural look.
Pebbles as Mulch
Mulching is something more gardeners are doing in the garden. Basically it involves adding a layer of material over the top of your soil to aid with water retention. This means less watering which saves time and also water supplies. Not everyone has an endless supply of water or the enthusiasm to maintain lawns and pebbles are a great alternative, particularly in naturally dry areas.
Weeding in garden beds is greatly reduced. It is quite easy to pull the few weeds that attempt to grow among the pebbles. As the plants mature and fill up the planting spaces there is less room for weeds to find a place to grow.
To stop the grass from coming up through the pebble mulch paths we have found that a heavy layer of newspaper and then a layer of plastic or weed mat on top works very well. The newspapers and the plastic help to retain moisture, another important reason for mulching. On top of this plastic the pebbles that were recently in the planting holes are spread in a thick layer. Larger flat rocks are used as edging.
Decor Pebble is a natural stone specialist. You can view their full range of Australian natural stone pebbles at: www.decorpebble.com.au/australian-natural-stone-pebbles.htm
June 4th, 2007
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